Travel the Trails

Trip 8: AZ-264 East: Tuba City to Keams Canyon

160 miles (258 km) from Tuba City to Keams Canyon

Disclaimer: NANACT trip guides are based on information from Native Roads: The Complete Motoring Guide to the Navajo & Hopi Nations, 2nd Edition by Fran Kosik (Rio Nuevo Publishers, 2005). Some information may have changed since the publication of the book. While NANACT will attempt to maintain current information, consider verifying the current operation/existence of businesses, accommodations, dining and similar interests before planning your trip.

Scenic & Historic:

NOTE: The Hopi Nation stays on mountain standard time throughout the year.

The Hopi Nation

The Hopi (pronounced ho-pee) have always lived in the Four Corners area of the Colorado Plateau. Even though the legal boundary of today’s reservation has confined them to a relatively small land mass in comparison to the Navajos’ reservation, evidence of their influence via trading and clan symbols is found at the ruins of Betatakin, Keet Seel, Mesa Verde, and as far east as Chaco Canyon.

The Hopis’ aboriginal boundaries, or tutsqua, established by tradition and history, are Navajo Mountain to the north, down the Colorado River to Bill Williams Mountain to the west, over to the San Francisco Peaks or Nuvatukya’ovi, along the Mogollon Rim to the Zunis’ Blue Lake for the southern boundary, and north to Canyon de Chelly and the Four Corners area for the eastern boundary.

The Hopis have strictly adhered to a sophisticated ceremonial calendar. Specific holy men in each village continue to determine the timing of individual ceremonies by the position of the sun, making it difficult for outsiders to know exactly when a ceremony will take place.

Katsinas, or kachinas, as they are popularly called, are the very important spirit beings in Hopi cosmology who assure rain for the Hopis and all people on earth. The katsinas visit the Hopis and bring gifts. At the end of a dance, prayer feathers are given to the katsinas so that the prayers for rain and good things will be carried in all directions.

The Home Dance, or Niman, is the last katsina dance in the ceremonial calendar. This is when the katsinas leave the mesas to return to their home on the San Francisco Peaks. These dances are the way of communicating the Hopis’ needs to the Supreme Creator.

Rules About Visiting Hopi Villages

1. Disruption of shrines or removal of articles is not allowed. All archaeological sites on the Hopi Reservation are protected by federal law and Hopi tribal ordinance.

2. Photographing, recording, and sketching on Hopi land is strictly prohibited unless a permit has been granted.

3. Overnight camping is allowed by permission in designated areas.

4. Alcoholic beverages and drugs are strictly prohibited.

5. Visits to villages should be limited to a few hours.

6. Each village is autonomous.

Dress is important, and visitors should dress respectfully. During the ceremony do not ask questions or discuss the events. Do not follow the katsinas or ceremonial participants out of the plaza. Choose a place to observe the ceremony and do not walk around the plaza or the village.

MM 336 Coal Mine Canyon (North)

Head north on the dirt road leading to the windmill. No services. This magnificent canyon is easily missed if you don’t have the right map or are looking the wrong way as you drive by. It’s known to the Navajo as honoojií, meaning “jagged,” which describes the erosion patterns in the canyon. Its top layer is Dakota Sandstone overlying Cowsprings Sandstone.

Third Mesa

Because early explorers entered the Hopi villages from the east, the mesa sitting on the southernmost tip of Black Mesa became First Mesa, with Second Mesa and Third Mesa following.

MM 371 Old Oraibi (South) (Orayvi)

Although contested by some villages, Oraibi is considered the oldest continuously inhabited village in the United States. The logs used to build many of the homes are from A.D. 1260 to 1344, according to tree-ring dating. It is thought that the logs came from the San Francisco Peaks, more than a hundred miles (160 km) away. You may walk through the ancient streets but cannot go past the old village where the ruins of a church stand.

MM 373 Kykotsmovi (New Oraibi) (Kiqotsmovi)

This is the location of the modern Hopi government.

The Kykotsmovi Village Store for many years was part of Babbitt Brothers Trading Co. Recently, the village chose not to renew the trading company’s lease and decided to operate the store themselves. Open 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. (MST) Monday through Friday, and Sunday 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. year-round.

Second Mesa

At an elevation of six thousand feet (1,829 m), this mesa has two distinct sections. To the east are the villages of Shipaulovi and Mishongnovi. To the west is the village of Shungopavi. Artists living on this mesa are well known for their coiled baskets, katsina dolls, and overlay jewelry.

Mile 379.5 Hopi Cultural Center and Museum (North)

The cultural center is a tribal enterprise with the goal of presenting accurate cultural and historical information to visitors traveling through Hopi country. It contains shops and one of the three restaurants on the reservation. Open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday; Saturday 9 a.m.–3 p.m. (MST). There is a small admission charge. (928) 734-6650.

Hopi Cultural Center Motel

The only motel on the Hopi reservation, this lodge has thirty-three rooms and fills up quickly in summer. It also has a campground. For reservations call (928) 734-2401. While here, try the blue corn pancakes and noqkwivi, traditional Hopi stew with lamb and corn. The restaurant also makes a very good Hopi taco, much the same as its Navajo counterpart. Open from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. (MST).

First Mesa

Artists on First Mesa are known for their pottery, katsina dolls, and weavings. If you wish to visit the First Mesa villages, you must stop at Ponsi Hall at the top of the mesa on the right, at the end of the road. Tours of Walpi are offered Monday through Friday, 9:30 a.m.–4 p.m., but depending on the number of guides available. The tours are about $18 per person. This is the only mesa that offers tours. (928) 737-2262.

Hano (Haano)

This is the first village you drive through when climbing up the steep road to Walpi. Hano is a Tewa village, established by people who came from the Rio Grande area near Albuquerque after the Pueblo Revolt of 1680. As was customary, each arriving clan was asked by the Bear Clan what they could contribute to the good of the people. The Tewas of Hano contributed their ability to be guardians of First Mesa.

Hano was the home of the famous potter Nampeyo, born in 1860. She developed her world-renowned pottery after two anthropologists, J. W. Fewkes and F. W. Dodge from the Smithsonian Institution, excavated Sikyatki, a ruin on First Mesa. Nampeyo used the ancient pot sherds they brought to her as a guide for her geometric designs, maintaining the ancient techniques that developed into a pottery style known as Sikyatki Revival.

Nampeyo became so popular that Fred Harvey commissioned her to perform pottery exhibitions at the Grand Canyon. As her fame spread, she traveled on the newly completed Santa Fe Railroad to the Chicago Railway Exhibition, and even to the East Coast to display her skills. Over the years she became blind but taught her daughters how to copy her intricate earth tone designs. This skill has passed from one generation of the Nampeyo family to the next, making it possible for you to still buy a Nampeyo pot.

Hano is also famous for hand-coiled pottery. You may stop at homes with “Pottery For Sale” signs to buy these beautiful pieces directly from the potters.

Traditional Hopi pottery is not fired in a kiln but hand-fired over an open fire of sheep dung or coal, as was the custom at Awat’ovi in prehistoric times. You can tell the difference between open fire and kiln pottery. Kiln pottery has a more consistent coloring than the hand-fired pot.

Sichomovi (Sitsomovi)

Mile 403.5 Keams Canyon

This remains a government town, named after Thomas Keam, a former trader and Indian agent. Before 1860 it was known as Peach Orchard Springs. The Hopis call this natural oasis Pongsikya.

The Keams Canyon Indian Health Service Hospital is located at the end of the canyon. Non-Indians may be seen here on an emergency basis only. Telephone: (928) 738-2211.

Accommodations (Hotels/Camping/RV Parks):

Tuba City - Lodging        

Isvoki Inn, 928-255-3829

Second Mesa - Lodging

Hopi Cultural Center Motel

The only motel on the Hopi reservation, this lodge has thirty-three rooms and fills up quickly in summer. It also has a campground. For reservations call (928) 734-2401. Restaurant open from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. (MST).

Tours:

Moenkopi Village (Munqapi) - Moenkopi Community Development Office

Permission required to tour the village; Office hours: 8 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon. – Fri.  Closed weekends.

MM 367 Bacavi (North) (Paaqavi) - Bacavi Community Development Office

Permission required to tour the village; Office hours: 8 am– 5 pm, Mon.–Fri.

Mile 367.25 Hotevilla (South) (Hotvela) - Hotevilla Community Development Office

Permission to tour the village; (928) 734-2420. Office hours: 8 am–5 pm Mon. - Fri.  Closed weekends.

MM 373 Kykotsmovi (New Oraibi) (Kiqotsmovi)- Kykotsmovi Community Development Office

Permission required to tour the village; (928) 734-2474. Office hours: 8 am–5 pm Mon. - Fri. Closed weekends.

Mile 381.5 Shungopavi (Songoopavi) - Shungopavi Community Development Office

Tourists may not attend ceremonies at this village unless they have an invitation or are guests of one of the residents. Permission required to tour the village; Office hours: 8 a.m.–5 p.m., Mon. - Fri.  Closed weekends.

Mishongnovi (Musungnuvi) - Mishongnovi Community Development Office

Permission required to tour the village; Office hours: 8 a.m.–5 p.m., Mon. - Fri. Closed weekends.

First Mesa Community Development Office

Permission required to tour the village; (928) 737-2670. Office hours: 8 a.m.–5 p.m., Monday through Friday. Closed on weekends.

The following are Hopi Tribe approved tour guide companies:

Shooting Star Tours, Ernest Northrup, P.O. Box 164, Kykotsmovi, AZ 86039,  928-734-2393

Hopi Guild Tour Services, Milland Lomakema, P.O. Box 37, Second Mesa, AZ 86043,  928-734-2465

Anna's Tours, Anna Silas, P.O. Box 7, Second Mesa, AZ 86043,  928-734-6650

Left Handed Hunter Tour Services, Gary Tso, P.O. Box 278, Second Mesa, AZ 86043,  928-734-2569

First Mesa Tours, Belma Navakuku, P.O. Box 260, Polacca, AZ 86042, 928-737-22262

Sharon's Tours, Sharon Grover, P.O. Box 434, Polacca, AZ 86042,  928-737-2468

Tsavadawa Tours, Bertram Tsavadawa, P.O. Box 412, Second Mesa, AZ 86043,  928-797-8145

Lomawywesa, Michael Kabotie, PO Box 519, Second Mesa, AZ  86043,  928-734-5248

Evelyn Fredericks, Evelyn Fredericks, PO Box 134, Kykotsmovi, AZ  86039,  928-734-9377

Hopi Land Tours, Marlinda Kooyaquaptewa, P.O. Box 776, Second Mesa, AZ 86043, 928-734-9390

Hopi Tours, Micah Loma'omvaya, P.O. Box 464,  Second Mesa, AZ 86043,  928-206-7433

Native American Journeys, Dave Swartwout, P.O. Box Box 20667, Sedona, AZ 86341,  928-284-4735

Great West Tours, Robert Gillman, P.O. Box 2608, Sedona, AZ 86339, 928-204-5506

Redstone Tours, Paul Smith, P.O. Box 4157, Sedona, AZ 86340,  928-203-0396

Food & Dining:

Kykotsmovi

Kykotsmovi Village Store

For many years was part of Babbitt Brothers Trading Co. Recently, the village chose not to renew the trading company’s lease and decided to operate the store themselves. Open 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. (MST ) Monday through Friday, and Sunday 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. year-round.  928-734-2456

Second Mesa

Hopi Cultural Center Restaurant

Try the blue corn pancakes and noqkwivi, traditional Hopi stew with lamb and corn. The restaurant also makes a very good Hopi taco, much the same as its Navajo counterpart. Open from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. (MST).  (928) 734-2401.

Services (Auto/Gas/Repair/Emergency):

Mile 396.5 Hopi Police Station (928-738-2234), and Junior-Senior High School (South)

Keams Canyon Indian Health Service Hospital

Located at the end of the canyon, Non-Indians may be seen here on an emergency basis only.

Art & Culture (Galleries/Trading Posts/Museums):

Mile 379.5 Hopi Cultural Center and Museum (North)

The cultural center is a nonprofit corporation with the goal of presenting accurate cultural and historical information to visitors traveling through Hopi country. It contains shops and one of the three restaurants on the reservation. Open Summer 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mon. – Fri., Sat. 9 a.m.–3 p.m. (MST); Winter hours vary. There is a small admission charge. (928) 734-6650.

Arts and Crafts      

Honanhie's Hopi Expressions, Arts & Crafts at Tuuvi Travel Center, Tuba City;  928-283-6800     

Third Mesa Art, Arts & Crafts at Tuuvi Travel Center, Tuba City;  928-283-5577    

Povi Native American Art, Arts & Crafts at Hopi Cultural Center, Second Mesa;  928-734-9417    

Badger Spirit, Hopi Jewelry/Gifts at Tuuvi Travel Center, Tuba City;  928-283-4307          

Corn Maiden Arts & Collectables, Arts & Crafts Gallery at Hopi Cultural Center, Second Mesa;  928-734-9390     

Kiva Southwest Art Gallery & Gifts, Arts & Crafts Gallery at Hopi Cultural Center, Second Mesa; 928-734-5118   

Honani, Inc., Arts & Crafts Gallery, Hopi Cultural Center, Second Mesa;  928-737-2238 

Hopi Arts, Arts & Crafts Shop, Kykotsmovi;  928-734-2393

Tsakurshovi, Arts & Crafts Shop, Second Mesa;  928-737-2478 

Sewukiwmas Arts & Crafts, Second Mesa;  928-734-0388        

Nuva Tsa Tuh Arts & Craft, Hotevilla; 928-734-9485     

Museum/Gift Shop at Hopi Cultural Center, Second Mesa;  928-734-6650           

Gifts for All Occasions, Novelty/Crafts, Second Mesa;  928-737-9443    

Lomaventema, Hopi Silver Jewelry, Second Mesa;  928-734-6688

Permissions

• Trip information is condensed with permission from Native Roads: The Complete Motoring Guide to the Navajo and Hopi Nations, by Fran Kosik, Rio Nuevo Publishers, Tucson, Arizona, 2005. Trip numbers generally coincide with chapter number in the book. Fran's full book contains much more wonderful information on traveling our Native roads. For more detailed information, the book can be purchased from:

  Museum of Northern Arizona bookstore, 3101 N. Ft. Valley Rd., Flagstaff, AZ 86001; phone #: 928-774-5213 or direct 928-774-5211 + Ext 261. Or, contact the publisher, Rio Nuevo Publishers, PO Box 5250, Tucson, Arizona 85703; phone #: 520-623-9558 or 800-969-9558. Trip numbers generally correspond to chapter numbers.