Travel the Trails

Trip 18: I-40 West: Chambers to Flagstaff

140 miles (225 km) from Chambers to Flagstaff

Disclaimer: NANACT twrip guides are based on information from Native Roads: The Complete Motoring Guide to the Navajo & Hopi Nations, 2nd Edition by Fran Kosik (Rio Nuevo Publishers, 2005). Some information may have changed since the publication of the book. While NANACT will attempt to maintain current information, consider verifying the current operation/existence of businesses, accommodations, dining and similar interests before planning your trip.

Scenic & Historic:

Mile Marker 333 CHAMBERS

Chambers prospered through the sale of bentonite clay deposits used in the manufacture of fine porcelain china.

MM 311 Petrified National Forest & Painted Desert

There are two entrances to the forest. If you’re pressed for time and want to see only the petrified wood, enter at the south entrance. At Holbrook, take U.S. Highway 180 south and follow the signs to the Painted Desert. The road from here to the north entrance is twenty-five miles (40 km) one-way. Both entrances charge $10 per car or $5 per person on bicycle or foot. The National Parks Pass is accepted. There are no camping facilities or motels.

There is a restaurant at the north end of the park next to the Painted Desert Visitors Center. The park is open 7 a.m. –7 p.m. in summer and 8 a.m.–5 p.m. (MST) the rest of the year. Closed December 25 and January 1.

The Petrified National Forest contains the largest collection of entire petrified logs, but smaller pieces of wood decorate much of northern Arizona.

SCENIC DETOUR

Begin at the north entrance, in the Painted Desert section of the park.

Painted Desert Inn Museum

Originally built in the 1920s, the Painted Desert Inn was rebuilt by the Civilian Conservation Corps for the National Park Service in 1938. The Fred Harvey Co. became the concessionaire at the park and asked Mary Colter to design the interior of the inn. She combined the Spanish theme of the building with native Indian designs. Fred Kabotie, the artist who painted murals in Colter’s Grand Canyon Watchtower at Desert View, painted the Buffalo Dance in the dining room of this hotel. No longer a hotel, the Painted Desert Inn has been preserved as a museum and is a National Historic Landmark. Behind the inn is a sweeping vista of the Painted Desert.

MM 292 Historic Detour: Bitahochee Trading Post

From I-40W take exit 292, 6 miles east of Holbrook, and travel north on AZ Highway 77 for 31 mile to Indian Wells. Bitahochee Trading Post is on eastside of the road, approximately 0.5 miles north of Junction with Navajo Route 15. 

The Bitahochee Trading Post

First established in 1870 and functioned as a stage coach station. Ten years later it became a full-fledged trading post, and because it was located at the edge of the southern border of the reservation, it became known as the Gateway to the Navajo Nation.

The Bitahochee served as an enlistment post during World War II. The famous Navajo Code Talkers were sworn in here.  Although the management of the Bitahochee Trading Post changed hands many times, it remained a valuable connection for the Navajo Nation to the outside world.  The Bitahochee was closed in 1994. 

However, today Navajo Artist Redwing Ted Nez is leading efforts to restore the Bitahochee Trading Post so Navajo traditions and arts can be preserved and taught, especially to the youth.  During the restoration process a building housing an art gallery has been added to grounds. 

MM 285 Holbrook

Holbrook was born a classic Western town. It developed around Horsehead Crossing, where the skull of a horse on a post marked the safest crossing across the treacherous quicksand of the Little Colorado River.

Named for Henry R. Holbrook, chief engineer of the Atlantic & Pacific Railroad, Holbrook was little more than a sleepy little town before the railroad arrived in 1866. It soon turned into one of the wildest burgs in the Southwest, boasting the only churchless county seat in the U.S.

To give you an idea of what it was like to be thrown into jail during this time in history, stop by the Navajo County Courthouse. This 1898 jail came completely assembled by railroad from St. Louis to be placed in the courthouse, found on the northeast corner of Navajo Boulevard.

One of the first Harvey Houses opened in Holbrook in 1884 and was staffed by Harvey Girls, who gave prompt and efficient service during the thirty-minute stop for meals. To speed up the service, rail passengers ordered their dinner selection from the conductor, who signaled ahead how many of each menu items to prepare. The meals were hot and waiting for the passengers as soon as they arrived. The most popular item on the menu was steak, imported from Kansas City. But passengers also had the choice of oysters, turtle, quail, or antelope.

The restaurant sat right next to the train depot in five converted railroad cars painted bright red and decorated in an Indian motif. Unfortunately, as rail travel decreased over the years, the Harvey Houses in railroad towns like Holbrook and Winslow disappeared.

MM 277 Cholla Lake County Park

This manmade lake has a campground patrolled by three rangers. Basic camping is $7 per night. Campsites with electricity and water are $10 per night. There are community bathrooms and showers but no dump site for RVs. Sites are given out on a first-come, first-served basis. The rangers lock the gates to the park at 9 p.m. (MST). If you want to get out earlier than 8 a.m., they will give you the combination. For more information call (928) 288-3717.

MM 274 Joseph City

This is the only one of four Mormon settlements to survive along the Little Colorado River during the late 1800s. First called Allen’s Camp for the mission’s leader, the community members decided to change the name to St. Joseph in honor of their prophet Joseph Smith.

MM 257 Homolovi Ruins State Park

The visitors center is open 8 a.m.–5 p.m. every day except Christmas. The ruins are open from 8 a.m. to sunset. There is an entrance fee. This is an Arizona state park, so the National Parks Pass is not accepted. All park facilities have been designed for access by physically impaired visitors. If you have difficulty walking any distance, check at the visitors center for alternate access to Homolovi II. The center has information in Braille and has sign language interpreters available for their public workshops if you
call in advance, (928) 289-4106.

In the Hopi language, Homol’ovi means “the place of little hills.” This settlement is an ancestral home to some clans currently living in Hopi villages to the north. It’s a different kind of interpretative site to visit because most of the three hundred ruins have not been excavated. This gives you an idea of the effort required to restore many of the ancient sites you may have already visited. At Homolovi II, thought to have more than a thousand rooms, you’ll have the opportunity to look inside an ancient kiva.

The Homolovi visitors center has exhibits, video programs, and a great bookstore specializing in the local native cultures, natural history, and Southwest archaeology. Throughout June and July you can watch archaeologists working Monday through Friday. The last weekend in July is the park’s annual archaeology day, with tours of the summer’s excavations. All of the ruins are reburied to protect them during the rainy season, which usually starts by early August.

Homolovi Campground: There are fifty-three sites with electricity, dump stations, and restrooms year-round. Water hookups and showers are available from mid-April through mid-October. Pull-through sites are available for large RVs, and some pads for tents are available.

MM 257 Little Colorado River

The river’s name in Hopi is Paayu, and it is a constant source of water throughout the year. Even when it looks dry, there is water just inches below the surface. During prehistoric times, the river flowed year-round, but since upstream damming, there is no surface flow during the dry season.

MM 257 Winslow

Before the coming of the railroad, Winslow was called Sunset Crossing and was the only safe way across the treacherous Little Colorado River. In 1866, the Navajos called Winslow “iron lying down” because of the iron rails stored here during construction of the railroad heading west.

The town is named for Gen. Edward Winslow, president of the St. Louis & San Francisco Railroad, which also owned most of the Atlantic & Pacific Railroad.

Famous Grand Canyon architect and designer Mary Colter built the La Posada Hotel and train depot in Winslow in 1929. Believing that a building should be an extension of its surroundings and blend with the history of the area, Colter designed La Posada in the grand hacienda style of the Southwest.

But local historians began a fight to save this treasure and got protection for the building through designation as a National Historic Landmark. Alan Affeldt, with city and state support, bought the old hotel in 1997, and today it is considered one of the top five historic hotels in Arizona. There are twenty guest rooms now available, and La Posada is open for tours every day. Amtrak stops daily at the depot, and PBS, the History Channel, and Garden TV have all produced specials on the restoration of La Posada.

One of the best features about this hotel is The Turquoise Room Restaurant and Martini Bar. Created by renowned chef John Sharpe, the restaurant recreates the elegant dining experience of the famous Turquoise Room dining car on the Santa Fe Railway's Super Chief. The menu includes entrees inspired by Fred Harvey such as elk medallions with cherry sauce or, for an appetizer, crisp piki bread with Hopi humus. Open Tuesday through Sunday; breakfast 7–10 a.m., lunch 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m., and dinner 5–9 p.m. For more information and a brochure, call (928) 289-2888.

MM 245 Agricultural Detour: North Leupp Family Farms

From I-40W take exit 245, approximately 6.0 miles west of Winslow, and travel north on AZ-99 for 19.4 miles to Leupp. At Indian Rte-15/Leupp Rd. turn right and go east 0.8 miles to Indian Rte-2/Leupp-Oraibi Rd. Turn left and go north 1.5 miles to Indian Rte-6732 (dirt road with stone building on north side). Turn left and go west 2.0 miles and turn left and follow dirt road south 0.3 miles to North Leupp Family Farms.

The North Leupp Family Farm (NLFF) [http://leuppfarm.googlepages.com], a community-based and supported sustainable agricultural project located in Leupp, AZ, Diné Nation has been in existence for over 30 years. The mission of NLFF is to re-engage the local communities in time-honored farming practices and culinary traditions; and to establish healthy communities through healthy eating and active lifestyles. NLFF is:

1) Developing and expanding community agricultural capacity;

2) Developing marketing strategies to accommodate local production and practices, and to support development of agriculture-based micro-enterprise initiatives;

3) Developing and demonstrating cost-effective alternative approaches to enhanced production in a dry-land farming environment; and

4) Initiating community-based and online culturally appropriate nutritional education programs to promote the significance of native plants and crops in traditional culinary arts.

Through existing coalition of linkages of local schools, tribal and, local and national resources, including the Northern Arizona University (NAU) Health Sciences Diabetes Prevention & Healing Gardens Program NLFF is developing strategies to encourage food security, connect local farmers with technical knowledge and viable food markets, increase self-reliance, demonstrate and promote innovative approaches to traditional farming practices.

MM 245 Educational Detour: The Star School

From I-40W take exit 245, approximately 6.0 miles west of Winslow, and travel north on AZ-99 for 19.4 miles to Leupp. At Indian Rte-15/Leupp Rd. turn left and go west approximately 19 miles, 0.3 miles past MM 440. Look for the school's sign and driveway on right. The administrative office is at the East end of the building on the North side of the playground.  [Alternate route from Flagstaff: Take I-40 East to the Cosnino Rd. exit. Go North (Left) on Cosnino Rd. until it T's at Camp Townsend-Winona Rd, then turn Right. Go 2 miles to where Leupp Rd. Turn left and go approximately 11 miles east, 7/10 mile past milepost 439.]

The STAR School [145 Leupp Rd, Flagstaff, AZ 86004; 602-412-3533; www.starschool.org] is a charter elementary school located 30 miles East of Flagstaff, Arizona. The school serves students in pre-school through grade 8 who live in the Southwest corner of the Navajo Nation and the surrounding rural area. The STAR School opened in August of 2001 with 23 students in grades 1-6, and by 2009 had 105 students pre-school through 8th grade.  STAR is committed to providing superior education and intends to be a model for communities with few jobs, no public utilities, high drop-out rates, and a history of conflict between governmental institutions and the people they are supposed to serve.  The STAR School's vision is to create a joyful learning community in which members develop the character, skills and attitudes for understanding themselves, living in balance and serving all our relations.

Commitments among administrators, teachers, students and parents are emphasized to clarify responsibilities and Achieve educational goals.  Sustainable living is a way of life intrinsic to the community which the school serves. The Star School promotes self-reliance, alternative building methods, and energy sources such as solar power. The school also hosts workshops about sustainable living, technology, and the arts.

MM 233 Meteor Crater

This is a privately owned commercial venture. It’s a five-mile (8 km) drive one-way to the visitors center, where there is a snack shop, curio shop, and entrance to view the crater. Open Memorial Day to Labor Day 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. (MST), the rest of the year 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. A rim tour of the meteor is available starting at 9:15 a.m. hourly until 2 p.m.

RV Park: There are seventy-one pull-through spaces, full hookups, and private restrooms with showers. (800) 478-4002, (928) 289-4002.

SCENIC DETOUR

Mile 204.5 WALNUT CANYON NATIONAL MONUMENT (South)

Open 8 a.m.–5 p.m. (MST) every day except Thanksgiving and Christmas. The National Park Pass is accepted. No campground or services available in the park. Water and bathrooms are available at the visitors center. Unfortunately, most of the park is not wheelchair accessible.

This beautiful Kaibab Limestone canyon was formed more than 60 million years ago. The canyon housed the prehistoric Sinagua Indians, named by Harold S. Colton, founder of the Museum of Northern Arizona. Colton conducted an extensive archaeological survey of the more than 300 ruins found under ledges in the canyon. He took the name Sinagua from the Spanish name for the area, Sierra Sin Agua, or “mountains without water.”

Island Trail: Behind the visitors center is a paved trail that descends into the canyon to allow you to visit more than twenty-five ruins. The trail drops 185 feet (56 meters) and can be strenuous for someone not accustomed to the 7,000-foot (2,134 m) elevation. There is also a rim walk.

SERVICES IN FLAGSTAFF

Contact the Flagstaff Chamber of Commerce at (928) 774-9541 for information on the many places to stay, dine, and explore.

Accommodations (Hotels/Camping/RV Parks):

Holbrook: Lodging

Best Western Adobe Inn (928) 524-3948; (800) 528-1234

Best Western Arizonian (928) 524-2611; (800) 528-1234

Brad’s Motel (928) 524-6929

Budget Host Holbrook Inn (928) 524-3809; (800) 283-4678

Budget Inn Motel (928) 524-6263

Comfort Inn (928) 524-6131; (800) 221-2222

Days Inn (928) 524-6949; (800) 329-7466

EconoLodge (928) 524-1448; (800) 424-4777

El Rancho Motel (928) 524-3332

Heward House B & B (928) 524-3411; (877) 740-0452

Holiday Inn Express (928) 524-1466; (800) 465-4329

Moenkopi Motel (928) 524-6848

Rainbow Inn (928) 524-2654; (800) 551-1923

Ramada Limited (928) 524-2566; (800) 272-6232

Super 8 Motel (928) 524-2871; (800) 800-8000

Travel Lodge Inn (928) 524-6815; (800) 578-7878

Western Holiday Motel (928) 524-6216

Holbrook: Camping and/or RV

KOA (928) 524-6689

OK RV (928) 524-3226

Joseph City: Camping and/or RV

MM 277 Cholla Lake County Park

This manmade lake has a campground patrolled by three rangers. Basic camping is $7 per night. Campsites with electricity and water are $10 per night. There are community bathrooms and showers but no dump site for RVs. Sites are given out on a first-come, first-served basis. The rangers lock the gates to the park at 9 p.m. (MST). If you want to get out earlier than 8 a.m., they will give you the combination. For more information call (928)288-3717.

Winslow Lodging

Amerisuites Hotel (928) 774-8042

Bel Air Motel (928) 289-4727

Best Western Adobe Inn (928) 289-4638, 1701 N. Park Drive I-40  Indoor heated pool , spa and Jacuzzi.

Days Inn (928) 289-1010 2035 W. Hwy 66 I-40 Indoor heated pool, spa and Jacuzzi.

Desert Sun Motel (928) 289-5130

Economy Inn (928) 289-3328

Econolodge (928) 289-4687

La Posada Hotel (928) 289-4366 303 E. 2nd street I-40  Ex 252 , Turquoise Room Restaurant and garden w/steak seafood and some Mexican.

Motel 6 (928) 289-9581

Motel 10 (928) 289-3211

Super 8 Motel (928) 289-4606

Travelodge of Winslow (928) 289-4611

Westerner Motel (928) 289-2825

Winslow Inn (928) 289-9389

Winslow: Camping and/or RV

RV Park (Winslow): There are seventy-one pull-through spaces, full hookups, and private restrooms with showers. (800) 478-4002, (928) 289-4002.

Homolovi Campground: There are fifty-three sites with electricity, dump stations, and restrooms year-round. Water hookups and showers are available from mid-April through mid-October. Pull-through sites are available for large RVs, and some pads for tents are available.

Tours:

Food & Dining:

Holbrook - Restaurants

Mesa Italian Restaurant

2318 E. Navajo Blvd., Holbrook, AZ 86025-1827; (928) 524-6696; 928-524-6696, Authentic Italian food and salads.

Butterfield Stage Co. Steakhouse

609 W. Hopi Drive, Holbrook, AZ 86025; 928-524-3447. Serves steak, soup and salad.

Winslow – Restaurants

Turquoise Room Restaurant in La Posada Hotel

Created by renowned chef John Sharpe, the restaurant recreates the elegant dining experience of the famous Turquoise Room dining car on the Santa Fe Railway's Super Chief. The menu includes entrees inspired by Fred Harvey such as elk medallions with cherry sauce or, for an appetizer, crisp piki bread with Hopi humus. Tues. – Sun.: breakfast 7–10 a.m., lunch 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m., and dinner 5–9 p.m. (928) 289-2888. www.theturquoiseroom.net

Services (Auto/Gas/Repair/Emergency):

Art & Culture (Galleries/Trading Posts/Museums):

MM 311 Petrified National Forest & Painted Desert

There are two entrances to the forest. If you’re pressed for time and want to see only the petrified wood, enter at the south entrance. At Holbrook, take U.S. Highway 180 south and follow the signs to the Painted Desert. There are no camping facilities or motels. There is a restaurant at the north end of the park next to the Painted Desert Visitors Center. The park is open 7 a.m. –7 p.m. in summer and 8 a.m.–5 p.m. (MST) the rest of the year. Closed December 25 and January 1. PAINTED DESERT INN MUSEUM - Originally built in the 1920s, the Painted Desert Inn was rebuilt by the Civilian Conservation Corps for the National Park Service in 1938. No longer a hotel, the Painted Desert Inn has been preserved as a museum and is a National Historic Landmark. Behind the inn is a sweeping vista of the Painted Desert.

MM 292 Historic Detour: Bitahochee Trading Post

From I-40W take exit 292, 6 miles east of Holbrook, and travel north on AZ Highway 77 for 31 mile to Indian Wells. Bitahochee Trading Post is on eastside of the road, approximately 0.5 miles north of Junction with Navajo Route 15. The Bitahochee Trading Post was first established in 1870 and functioned as a stage coach station. Ten years later it became a full-fledged trading post. , and because it was located at the edge of the southern border of the reservation, it became known as the Gateway to the Navajo Nation. today Navajo Artist Redwing Ted Nez is leading efforts to restore the Bitahochee Trading Post so Navajo traditions and arts can be preserved and taught, especially to the youth. During the restoration process a building housing an art gallery has been added to grounds.

MM 257 Homolovi Ruins State Park

The visitors center is open 8 a.m.–5 p.m. every day except Christmas. The ruins are open from 8 a.m. to sunset. There is an entrance fee. This is an Arizona state park, so the National Parks Pass is not accepted. All park facilities have been designed for access by physically impaired visitors. The center has information in Braille and has sign language interpreters available for their public workshops if you call in advance, (928) 289-4106.

MM 233 Meteor Crater

This is a privately owned commercial venture. It’s a five-mile (8 km) drive one-way to the visitors center, where there is a snack shop, curio shop, and entrance to view the crater. Open Memorial Day to Labor Day 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. (MST), the rest of the year 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. A rim tour of the meteor is available starting at 9:15 a.m. hourly until 2 p.m.

MM 225 Raymond Buffalo & Antelope Range

This range, purchased from Dr. R. O. Raymond by the Arizona Game and Fish, covers 15,000 acres. Eighty-five bison live here. Call ahead to make an appointment: (928) 774-5045.

Mile 204.5 Walnut Canyon National Monument (South)

Open 8 a.m.–5 p.m. (MST) every day except Thanksgiving and Christmas. The National Park Pass is accepted. No campground or services available in the park. Water and bathrooms are available at the visitors center.

Permissions

• Trip information is condensed with permission from Native Roads: The Complete Motoring Guide to the Navajo and Hopi Nations, by Fran Kosik, Rio Nuevo Publishers, Tucson, Arizona, 2005. Trip numbers generally coincide with chapter number in the book. Fran's full book contains much more wonderful information on traveling our Native roads. For more detailed information, the book can be purchased from:

  Museum of Northern Arizona bookstore, 3101 N. Ft. Valley Rd., Flagstaff, AZ 86001; phone #: 928-774-5213 or direct 928-774-5211 + Ext 261. Or, contact the publisher, Rio Nuevo Publishers, PO Box 5250, Tucson, Arizona 85703; phone #: 520-623-9558 or 800-969-9558. Trip numbers generally correspond to chapter numbers.